The Someday List of a Solicitor

Imagine my parents' delight. I had completed a Cambridge Law degree and joined the rest of my enlightened peers in the City of London. I had ticked off one of life’s major milestones and was headed in the right direction. After one more year of studying, my next step was Norton Rose, as reputable a law firm as one could wish to join. I completed my trainee programme in style and was raring to go... and then the disarray of the mortgage backed securities scandal crashed the system in 2008.

It looked like I was going to be left alone in the wild but then Norton Rose kindly offered newly minted solicitors like me an unpaid leave of absence to give the economy a chance to lick its wounds. This was to be a defining moment in my life, although I didn’t know it at the time.

Travel had always been close to my heart. From the forts and palaces of Rajasthan to the vast, desolate and overpowering landscape of Patagonia. I have always sought out adventure and exploration. So I used my sabbatical to tick off one of the experiences at the top of my someday list - to live with the Maasai in Kenya.

As I reflected on another hard but rewarding day in the African bush, I said to myself “wouldn’t it be cool if I could go on more adventures, but no don’t be silly, you have to go back to your corporate law job.”

After three months of travelling, I was headed back to a jungle of a different kind but I retained this nagging feeling that there was another calling.

Then something wonderful happened. I met my wife. Her father ran a travel company. One night as over a bottle of whisky, he asked me if I knew of anyone who would be interested in running a safari company in Africa. I said “you know, I can think of one person sitting very close by…”

My wife thought she had married a lawyer but secretly I wanted to live in Africa and run a travel company. She was surprisingly delighted! And so the Journey of my someday list continued and I moved to Cape Town to run Ker & Downey Africa.

Ex-colleagues, don’t give up your day job just yet... the last few years have not been as glamorous as it may sound. Exploring new and untouched destinations doesn’t come without its bug bites, sunburn and the odd bubonic plague scare! Fortunately for you and me I’m still in one piece and your years of graft and dedication has given you the means to follow in my footsteps but to do it right the first time and explore Africa in style.

So from one ex-solicitor to another, allow me to connect you with the best of both worlds: pure adventure and luxury travel. Marrying the best of my old and new worlds.

Be it exploring the ancient cultural sites of Axum, Gondar and Lalibela in the north of Ethiopia, hot-air ballooning above the Serengeti or exploring the islands of northern Madagascar on a Dhow, Africa offers so many varied adventures catering to all levels of adventurers!

Ethiopia - Ancient Monasteries, Rock Churches and Paradise

I didn’t know what to expect when I visited the rugged mountains of northern Ethiopia for the first time but whatever tentative preconceptions I had about this infrequently visited region were blown away the minute I arrived. I discovered the ancient monasteries of Bahir Dar, the historical sites of Axum, Gondar and Lalibela and the breathtaking beauty of the Simien Mountains, a UNESCO-listed national park. All of which was completely unknown to me prior to my first visit.

Lalibela is famous for the 11 churches carved out of the mountainside. Still only 50,000 people visit the churches each year, that’s less than the size of a premier league football match in England….! Named after King Lalibela who reigned in the 11th/12th century and presided over a period of relative prosperity and peace, the churches were only discovered by the west in the 15th century.

The churches were literally carved from the rock below ground. A number of different techniques were used but the most common approach was to dig down 10-15m and carve out trenches leaving an enormous block of solid rock, the windows, columns, doors and other features would then be carved from top to bottom slowly revealing a perfect imitation of other basilica churches in the country. The level of artistry and intricacy if the carvings is truly remarkable.

Ghelada monkeys and Ibex (source of photo unknown - not Lee’s!)

It’s believed that the churches took 24 years to build. One of the striking features of the Lalibela churches is the tunnels and passageways that connect them. At times you are plunged into darkness as you walk several hundred metres underground between the church sites...

The Simien Mountains National Park is situated about 100 clicks north of Gondar and is one of Africa's largest mountain ranges. It consists of several large plateaus divided by large river valleys with jaw dropping views stretching north towards Eritrea. Three of Ethiopia's endemic large mammals are residents of the Simiens: the Ghelada Baboon, the extremely rare Ethiopian Wolf and Walia Ibex.

Ethiopia is a truly remarkable country. Next on my someday list is a visit to the south of the country where you will find some of the most remarkable tribes in Africa including the Omo Valley Tribe and more central where you will find the Bale Mountains and the elusive Ethiopian wolf. For the truly brave at heart, we have organised a flight from Addis out to Harar on the far east of Ethiopia where you can observe the extraordinary sight of hyenas being fed from the local butchers! Not for the faint hearted!

Where to stay: perched on the edge of the escarpment,  will be a beautiful place to stay for visitors to Ethiopia's Simien Mountains National Park. Simple luxury and elegantly designed in a stunning setting. The lodge is a perfect example of true sustainable tourism offering minimal environmental impact whilst creating job opportunities for the local community.

Tanzania - Hot Air Balloon at Dawn

Before setting eyes on Tanzania for the first time, you can’t help but get swept up in the sensational stories of this incredible safari destination. It wasn’t just the wildlife - yes, the wildlife did live up to those stories - but it was more than that. It was everything from waking up to an Eskari warrior serving me coffee to watching the clouds roll into the world famous Ngorongoro crater to catching my first glimpse of Mt. Kilimanjaro while flying in for the first time.

An absolute highlight of the trip was a break-of-dawn hot air balloon over the Serengeti. It offers an unusual vantage point for photographing the wildlife and is far more fun than I'd anticipated—expect a bumpy ride and some incredible memories! The English breakfast and champagne in the middle of the bush straight-after the hot air balloon ride finished off a perfect morning. Oh, and the flight back from Seronera airstrip to Lake Manyara over the Ngorongoro Crater was also spectacular.

Where to stay: My favourite camp would probably be Nyaruswiga in central Serengeti which was perfect in terms of its styling, service and overall ambience. Picture old world style four poster beds, luxuriously draped tented accommodations and breathtaking views of endless plains and embraced by the majestic Nyaruswiga Hills.

Madagascar Dhow Safari

A week sailing around the northern archipelago of Madagascar was an adventure quite like no other have experienced. Madagascar is still many years behind the rest of Southern Africa in terms of tourism infrastructure which is both refreshing and sometimes challenging, however, once we left the port at Nosy Be, none of that seemed to matter.

Time stood still as we cruised from island to island, encountering lemurs and the odd boa constrictor en-route! Some of the accommodation was primitive for sure but nothing compares to waking up in a wooden hut on a golden beach with the sounds of the dense jungle behind us and the gently crashing waves of the turquoise ocean in front. Life never felt more simple or more exhilarating.

Two highlights jump out at me. The first was swimming side by side with giant sea turtles. They seemed completely at ease with us and we must have spent a good 20 minutes only metres away from them. The second was seeing a whale shark glide under our boat. It may have only lasted a matter of seconds, but the moment will be captured in my mind’s eye forever.

Where to stay: I’m a big fan of Miavana, the new 5* eco luxury hotel situated in the far north east on the island of Nosy Ankao. With only 14 private villas and access to approximately 15,000 hectares of protected marine space, this really is as close to a Robinson Crusoe getaway as you will find. Lemur treks (10 minute helicopter flight away or 25 minutes by boat), kayaking, fly fishing and a host of other activities will keep you busy for days.